839£ Gaming PC Build- LF Critique

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Hey everyone, first time poster and first time PC builder here ( ~8 year PC gamer)- I took Logan's 750$ Kill your PC build and shopped around for tweaks and this is what I came up with. It took hours upon hours to put this together and I want you guys to tear it to shreds! :D

Firstly, I actually live in Finland and so I operate in euros- Cap for the pc is circa 1000 euros, got all the peripherals I need except for a screen, which I didn't include in the title, but which is in the list as a custom entry.

The rig is for gaming nearly exclusively- I don't really play FPS so refresh rates aren't serious for me (though I'd damn well like to overclock that screen to 120hz if it wasn't locked) and I'll likely overclock the CPU. I'll also migrate an existing 1TB drive from my current PC; otherwise its a fresh start.

In particular I tried my hardest to get A: a very reliable PSU (did a bit of a hail mary on this) and B: a reliable mobo, because of this post by cross referencing suggested boards with this list.

If you're wondering about the high ram, I'd like to point out that it's twice the capacity of smaller sticks while only slightly more at local prices. Please consider the prices by european standards (Either by setting PcPartsPicker to Germany or UK or by being a fucking wizard who knows how to find parts without it)! I cry enough from seeing you guys have your pick between newegg and amazon as it is!

 

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/1WacA

 

Any and all comments on parts, value/performance ratios and quality greatly appreciated

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I'd try to get an FX-8320 or 8350 instead of a Noctua Cooler.  A Hyper 212+/EVO would work.  Also, a 750W PSU is a bit overkill for one gpu.  Unless you were planning to do SLI/Xfire, a 550W 80+B would work fine.

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Why the $400 monitor, especially at 1080p?!

Try this...

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/1WfSz

If you don't plan on crossfiring your 280X in the future, drop the 850w PSU in favor of something smaller and cheaper. 550w should be good.  Just make sure it's a QUALITY psu.

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yup, pretty good advice.

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I was looking at the Eizo mostly because of the rep of the company and five year warranty (and I also might've tiny bit taken in by all the "Near Zero input lag!" stuff they've got going on, figured it would make it an extremely responsive IPS).

PCPartPicker estimates the system wattage at 493- Would it really be okay to run it that close to spec for a 550W psu? I understand that overall power ratings for components are not likely to go up (I'll probably not end up doing double video cards, only upgrading to a new one), but aren't PSU's also significantly more energy efficient the lower the load is relative to their rating? Also, what exactly are quality psus, I can't make heads or tails of it.

I take it that MSI is on par with the toxic version by Sapphire? Are there any real differences besides price?

It seems you also cut out the SSD- Was that purely a budget choice? Anything wrong with that particular SSD over others? It does make sense to forgo the SSD for now but I will get one soon enough so it's relevant to me.

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Missed a part in my previous comment:

The monitor you mentioned is said to have light bleed problems- I haven't faced light bleed in ages so I don't know whether that should make me particularly worried. Could you ELI5 what I should be looking at in IPS monitors? Any good resources for making comparisons?

 

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I was looking at the Eizo mostly because of the rep of the company and five year warranty (and I also might've tiny bit taken in by all the "Near Zero input lag!" stuff they've got going on, figured it would make it an extremely responsive IPS).

A cheaper monitor will do just as good.  I guarantee you will not notice the difference.  The only difference that you will notice is the price lol.

PCPartPicker estimates the system wattage at 493- Would it really be okay to run it that close to spec for a 550W psu? I understand that overall power ratings for components are not likely to go up (I'll probably not end up doing double video cards, only upgrading to a new one), but aren't PSU's also significantly more energy efficient the lower the load is relative to their rating? Also, what exactly are quality psus, I can't make heads or tails of it.

550W is more than plenty.  PCPartPicker overestimates the required wattage.  If you want, you're more than welcome to bump it up to 650 or even 750 if you plan on doing crossfire in the future.  PSUs typically work the best at a little more than half load.  Quality PSUs depend on a couple of things....efficiency and OEM.  Seasonic, XFX, Rosewill, and certain Corsair models are among the best brands.  You also want to make sure your PSU uses a single, strong 12v rail.  "Strong" depends on amperage.  This info is usually listed on most vendors' websites.

I take it that MSI is on par with the toxic version by Sapphire? Are there any real differences besides price?

Pretty much the same.  I'd go for MSI since it's cheaper and they are well known for their overclocking abilities. Sapphire's cards are usually voltage locked, not sure if this applies to this particular card though.  I recommend searching for reviews on Google and comparing them.  Look for the one with the lowest temps and acoustic levels, while being the best value for your money.

It seems you also cut out the SSD- Was that purely a budget choice? Anything wrong with that particular SSD over others? It does make sense to forgo the SSD for now but I will get one soon enough so it's relevant to me.

I cut out the SSD in favor of much better components.  You can always add a SSD in your build later.  However, adding a better motherboard, PSU, CPU, etc can be a pain and more expensive in the long run.  The particular one you chose is actually a great SSD for the money.  It's reliable and fast.  I would recommend that you save up for a 250GB SSD. 120GB will fill up fast.

The monitor you mentioned is said to have light bleed problems- I haven't faced light bleed in ages so I don't know whether that should make me particularly worried. Could you ELI5 what I should be looking at in IPS monitors? Any good resources for making comparisons?

I only saw one customer review that mentioned this.  If you're still not sure, then I'll list some more options for you to consider below.  I just can't recommend you buy a 1080p monitor for $400, regardless of warranties and company rep.  You could get a 1440p monitor at that price.  However, I think 1080p better suits your budget and your overall build. Just look out for things such as the backlight bleed you mentioned. Research reviews on Google.  Make sure it includes features that you require (resolution, screen size, lighting method, etc).

Monitors:

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vn248h

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/lg-monitor-27ea33v

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/lg-monitor-ips231pbn

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/viewsonic-monitor-vp2365led