I was thinking more along the lines of the UEFI or some other firmware…
When you power on the PC, put your finger tip on the top side of the AIO heatsink. That’s where the pump is, so you should feel some vibration that is noticeable, especially at startup. Other option is get in a quiet room, disconnect all case fans, and listen for the hum of the pump
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So I cleaned all the original paste off the cold plate and CPU heat sink with isopropyl alcohol and then reapplied Thermal Grizzly paste, making sure it went to the edge of the cold plate. Total coverage this time.
I fired it up and it actually sat at 77C for some time then when I was feeling the pump to see whether I could tell if it was running, I just moved one of the hoses a bit…barely a quarter of an inch and BAM it shot right up to 95C.
I tried moving the hose a tiny bit on several restarts and I’m stuck at well over 90C it seems. No point burning out my ASROCK Fatality mobo for this AIO.
It’s going right back in teh box, return for refund, and I’m getting that big Dark Rock Pro 4.0 but I’m going to have a good look at that Nocua that 2bitmarksman posted above. My question about that is that if it’s radiator is small enough to fit in the 4u case, will it be able to pull its weight in cooling a 2950x?
These companies should spend less time on LED light shows and more time making serious products that can do the job. When I’m shopping for an AIO and it’s difficult finding out the serious specs buried under all the ad man copy for your rainbow psychedelic light show it actually starts to make my blood boil.
For TR4 (or SP3), you want a cooler that has a large cold-plate.
Video on the subject:
Depending on how much hight you have in the case:
Noctua NH-U14S-TR4
Arctic Freezer33 TR
Deepcool Fryzen <- worst name award
Thermalright SilverArrow TR4
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I would get the Noctua 14S TR4 BUT it blocks off one of your slots for DDR4 RAM. Another guy on another forum is using the Dark Rock and swears buy it for his TR4 1950 Threadripper. I’m strongly leaning to that. I’ll use my 4U Rosewill case for now with the lid off as a test bench even though that Dark Rock (and all these other TR4 air coolers) are about 1/4" too tall for it. I’ll pick up that 5U case and rebuild the entire computer in it in a month or two so I don’t suck down my bank account too drastically 
in the short term
http://www.plinkusa.net/web5101.htm
Plink USA…
Eventually I’ll replace all those stock fans with Noctua 80 mm and 120 mm fans
At 220 mm height it should easily accomodate any one of those air coolers. I should have done this right off the bat . Threadrippers are strange beasts. I was originally going to go with the 2990WX…I’m glad i didn’t. I’m not a big enough baller for that. I’m barely capable enough to do the 2950X.
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So the CPU problems seem to be solved with the Dark Rock Pro TR4 cooler with
CPU temp running in idle at 62C. If I put in the last 3 120 mm case fans that should drop a bit more
So I want to upgrade the version of the BIOS from P3.30 to P3.50
Should I bother flashing the BIOS to X399PG3.50 or just be happy with the P3.30? The three upgrades in 3.50 don’t seem really relevant to me. “Spread Spectrum item?”
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Good to hear your CPU temps are better.
When you do not have problems on one BIOS, leave it as it is.
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To what extent should I take the offset for consistent fan policy into account with my CPU temp? My radiator feels pretty cool to the touch. Even the heat pipes down at the bottom of the radiator are quite cool.
Is for example an app like CPUID HWMonitor taking into account this AMD Offset for consistent fan policy or is it giving a direct readout of the True Junction Temp (Tdie)?
So if my UEFI is reporting CPU Temp (tCTL) of 61.5 C - tCTL offset for Fan Policy of 27 C = True Junction Temperature (Tdie) of 34.5 C ??
Yes, exactly. Tctl - 27°C = Tdie (on TR)
For Ryzen 1000-series the temperature offeset between Tctl (T controll) and Tdie (junction temerature) is 20°C. So my 1700X idles at 30°C.
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Awesome, thanks a lot for this. What a relief. Now I can go ahead and install Windows 10 on that M2. Building your own rig is a beautiful experience even with all the worries.
By the way, what app is that you’re using to monitor your temperatures and voltages?
Thanks a lot for this, and for all your generous help.
And yeah, it’s party time baby. haha
Like @2bitmarksman said, HWinfo.
In the little window it starts up as, select “Sensors-only” to get what I screenshoted from.
There is also “Summary-only” wich comes in handy from time to time.
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yeah, I see it’s quite the program and is in fact used by NASA to monitor thousands of measurement points in their complex engineering projects.
Thank you too for all your generous assistance. It’s sort of intimidating to have almost $6000 worth of rather delicate equipment in your hands when you’ve never done a project like this before.
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@9:19
Your AIO seems not to be the only one to have problems.
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Well not really that surprising to me.
I mean they also had issues with pump failures with the H80 and H100’s back in the day.
Corsairś aio’s arent the greatest in the world so to speak.
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Yep. That was a close call. Air coolers are safer and perform better right out of the box.
Any luck getting the cpu temp down any further?
My 2950x lives around 34c, with a room temp of 19-20c. I’m using a coolermaster aio with a 360 rad. The pump supports pwm, but I have it locked at 100%, not sure where to set it really. Fans on the rad are locked at 40% pwm unless the temp goes over 65c then they jump to 100%.
If I fire up prime95 with 32 workers on the “max heat” setting the cpu gets up to 51-55c running overnight (6 to 8 hours)
