+1 on the FX6300, it's the most balanced value-for-money offering in the AMD range at the moment. The FX8350 is faster but also emits a lot more heat, so you'll have to invest in cooling before overclocking, and it draws a lot more power, so you'll need a more expensive motherboard to overclock it.
An FX6300 on the other hand is compatible with quality well-featured budget motherboards like the Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3, which can overclock the FX6300 without problem and has a lot of USB3 ports and SATAIII onboard and a decent audio subsystem, while at the same time belonging to the Ultra Durable range, which features high quality components and moisture/overvoltage-protection. This board has a simple VRM, but it's digital PWM based and powerful enough for the 95 W TDP FX6300. If you belong to those that don't want to spend more on the motherboard than on the processor (I'm certainly one of those myself), maybe such a simple board is enough for you, and you can save some money for faster RAM, or a bigger SSD, or even a great gaming mouse or a better monitor.
The FX6300 is a potent processor, in computing experience comparable to a Core i5-3570k.
There's still a lot of Phenom X6 PC's out there with competitive gamers, which was the previous iteration of the AMD six-core, and they don't plan on updating because their systems are doing just fine, so if you get the newer iteration, you can't go wrong for years of gaming pleasure.
As to the graphics card, in a 1000 USD system, I would go for an AMD 7870XT card, it has the 7970 Tahiti chip, it's very overclockable, the driver are good, the price is right, and it's a good performance match for the FX6300. Adobe is developing OpenCL acceleration for AMD cards in Photoshop, Premiere and After Effects, so in the near future, it is to be expected that an nVidia GPU is not an advantage for Adobe rendering acceleration anymore. And if you're not Adobe-dependant and use OpenShot or KDEnlive in GNU/Linux, you'll have to wait a little longer, but the same will happen there.
In a 1000 USD system, I would not invest in a sound card or a mechanical keyboard, but I would invest in a laser gaming mouse because getting the right gaming mouse for you makes a lot of difference.
I would also get the Arctic Cooling Freezer A30 before the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, not that you need the massive 320W of cooling performance of the A30, but it's very easy to clean and the radiator volume is bigger and although it's also a direct touch heatpipe thing, it's a bit more solid and beefy, and the fan shroud on it stops a bit more annoying noise when the fan ramps up on a hot gaming day. It's about the same price, and comes with arctic silver mx4 TIM in the box (parallel fine line method should be used for this type of cooler to avoid hot spots on the processor heat spreader because of TIM buildup between the heatpipes, that will cause core temp variations that may reduce performance and lifespan).
I also prefer Kingston Memory over Corsair Vengeance, just because in my personal experience, I've had a bit more RMA with the corsair vengeance and the kingston works at more different speeds, so is a bit more flexible. Kingston HyperX Blue 1866 is not more expensive, and stays at 1.5V over the range, but can handle overvoltage when overclocking, and it has quite a bit of headroom for that. It does draw a bit more amps of electrical power at 1.5V at a certain clockspeed where other memory runs at 1.65V (Ohm's Law).
Most modern routers have gigabit-ethernet ports, so if you can, go wired instead of wireless. Most motherboards have good gigabit-ethernet NIC's built in.
When you buy essential hardware for a PC to build yourself, you can get an OEM-version of Windows, because you're a system integrator, or you've bought it together with a system, either way you want to look at it, you're within the EULA for an OEM-version.